Day Ten - Namiri Plains - Lions, Lions, Cheetah, Lions, Cheetah, Lions

Another 6:30am start for what was to be our big cat day. We started with two pretty huge and magnificent male lions lying in the grass near a large rock kopje. Penwell said that this pair are newcomers to the area looking for territory and to claim a pride of their own and may cause some upset in the weeks to come.

We continued on to another kopje, currently home to part of a pride that has two-week-old cubs that are hidden down in a bushy area between the rocks. As we arrived a large male was on the move climbing up to join a lioness that lay on the top. As he clambered up he slipped sideways landing heavily on his side against the rock while the lioness seemed almost to reach out to catch him … he lay still for a couple of seconds and then rose to stalk off huffily (and embarrassed) out of sight.

One of the cubs made a little appearance popping out for a little wobble along a low rock and then peeping out for his/her picture. Then it was cleaning time and we could see the lioness head bobbing behind the rock as the cubs got a good morning wash.

We left them and found a vacant kopje to set up breakfast – coffee, fruit, sausage and quiche, a little pit-stop  and then on our way (in another mystery direction)

Penwell spotted a cheetah in the middle-distance (don’t ask me how!) and we headed that way. As we arrived she was sitting alertly but within a couple of seconds she rose purposefully and launched into full chase, zig-zagging through the mid-height grass, tail whipping sideways for balance. Just a few excited heartbeats later she rose with a twitching rabbit dangling from her mouth, stalked a few paces past the car and then dropped into the grass to eat.

We watched and listened to the crunching of bones, she ate quickly and raised her head to check around frequently showing us her blood-pink mouth and whiskers. After about 15 minutes she rose and walked away and the shadow of a vulture fell on the ground as it swooped in to land just behind her. It followed her unsure, it seemed of where the remains (if any) lay. One step too close and she rounded on the bird and as it took flight she leapt of the ground and took a swipe.

Just amazing!!!

On our way back to camp we checked the kopje with the young cubs. The male lion (Mr. Clumsy from earlier) was snoozing on the big rock, his tummy rising and falling the only movement to see while a lioness dozed further along the top. The cubs were peeping out a little but hard to see in the shade.

On the way back to the camp for lunch we came across yet another pride (of 12+) sleeping in the shade of a tree by the road – the pride from last night under a different tree.

Another delicious lunch of (fancy) fish and chips and then a couple of hours desk-time before the afternoon drive at 4:30.

We checked in on our way back with the pride under the tree – still snoozing, then drove by the kopje/cub pride – still snoozing. A third pride that we found in the grass were a little more active with some playing, pawing and cuddling going on. 

This pride included a collared female (part of the Serengeti Lion Project that monitors the movements of certain lion). 

We watched for a while and then headed towards where two male cheetah brothers had been seen earlier in the day. We found them intently and carefully approaching a small heard of impala so we hung back and watched. Unfortunately for the cheetah the impala caught wind of them and took flight long before they were close enough and they lay back down in the grass.

We headed back to the kopje to check for activity and both the male and the females were posing beautifully in the golden evening light. 

The clouds were forming quite promisingly for a nice sunset so we stayed to see if we might get some good lion sunset silhouettes ……

Then a quick dash back to camp in the almost-dark.

More good camp-fire company and a lovely dinner with Penwell finding out all about his family and his hopes and dreams for them and his guiding career.