Day One - Into the Serengeti, Ewanjan, Siringit & Nanyukie

The Coastal flight from Kilimanjaro to Seronera was smooth and quick. I think I nodded off somewhere over Ngorongoro since it seemed no time at all that we were dipping through the clouds and the Serengeti Plains unfolded below in a blanket of misty gold and green. A smooth landing and quick dismount to find a smiling Barnabus (Lemala Nanyukie resident guide) waiting for me at the edge of the strip. While Baranabus sorted out the paperwork I celebrated my arrival with a cold Kilimanjaro.

 

We set of for the 30 minute drive west to Ewanjan and met a magnificent big bull elephant sauntering along the way - my first elephant of the trip is always a special moment for me – like the final piece in a homecoming.

And we made a little kopje detour to find these ladies

Camp Visit Ewanjan

We drove from the airstrip about 30 minutes towards Lemala Ewanjan through good sized herds of honking wildebeest and zebra. Ewanjan is currently closed (with any bookings being hosted at Nanyukie instead) but Saleh and a skeleton staff had kindly opened up the main tent and a guest tent for me to tour. Not only was Saleh waiting to greet us on arrival but an absolutely gorgeous small herd of Zebra were grazing peacefully in front of the dining tent and lounge.

I have visited Ewanjan in the past but not since the refurb a couple of years ago and I was instantly reminded of the charm of this little gem of a camp. Simple and stylish I think it caters best to those wanting comfort without losing the essence of an old-school safari camp. Instead of the usual bedroom area with a bathroom at the back Ewanjan tent layout is side-by-side so it’s wide not deep and I personally prefer this style. Comfortable furnishings, spacious feeling tents, bucket showers and a relaxed and natural feeling lounge/bar/dining tent. Really the perfect mid-range authentic tented camp in a great central location and the zebra just were the icing.

 Ewanjan - Lounge & Dining- Video

Ewanjan - Family Tent - Video

Piles of bruised storm clouds were building as we headed towards Siringit which lies about 20 minutes east of Seronera airstrip so we didn’t dilly dally game-viewing except for appreciating the swathes of wildebeest and zebra grazing on both sides of the road and shambling out of our way with the odd skittish youngster racing to catch up. 

Camp Visit Siringit Serengeti

Siringit is a camp I’ve heard mention of a few times recently and I thought definitely worth the time to stop and take a look. I’m glad I did – wow! A most beautiful tented camp with sleek (but stopping short of overdone) tented suites on raised platforms. Very natural furnishings and woods really make a soothing luxury vibe. Something a little different from the traditional safari camp but without losing the connection to the surroundings.

Siringit Family Tent (2 bedroom) - Video

Alas our luck ran out right as I finished touring the family tent – the clouds broke open with a mighty roar and the downpour began. Serious massive-dropped rain and no end in sight so a mad dash back to the open vehicle which Barnabus had been busy securing with the roll-down sides. Drenched and dripping we set off towards Nanyukie through torrential rain. The roads turned to rivers and the Serengeti like an ocean in minutes. I hunkered down in the back soggy and cold wrapped in a Masai blanket while wonderful Barnabus navigated the river while being lashed by the rain in the open driver’s seat.

Lemala Nanyukie – 2 nights

It took a little over an hour to reach Nanyukie and the rain had stopped about 15 minutes before our arrival. Lots of happy welcoming faces were waiting to greet us with Goodluck, the manager the most beaming of all.

I can only say that after my journey of 40 hours (from my home in Texas to Nanyukie) running on about 4 hours total sleep and after a thorough drenching I could not imagine anywhere more perfect to land for my first night. Just an absolutely gorgeous tented lodge nestled at the base of a large kopje. The tented suites are really a master-class in safari luxury with such a stylish and sleek but still natural vibe with the soft fabrics and woods. Every amenity you could ask for with indoor and outdoor showers as well as a bathtub with a window wall that fully slides away to open the tub up to the outside as well as a private plunge pool. The whole front of the suite is large glass sliding panels which while they look amazing I wasn’t sure I would be a big fan of since I thought it could create too much of a separation from outside for my taste. For overnight I slid back the central 2 doors in front of the (massive) bed and just left the screen sliders closed and I can report that there was very little separation during my night of lion calls, hyena and baboons. Also the rest of the walls are canvas so even with the doors closed you would still be able to hear some of the night sounds.

Nanyukie - Lounge & Dining - Video

Nanyukie - 2 Bedroom Tent - Video

The 2 main areas are raised up higher than the tents and are very open and comfortable with good views. The bar and lounge has big comfy couches and coffee tables as well as an inviting sit-up bar and a log burner for chilly evenings.

The staff were fantastically friendly and helpful, with lovely attention to details and the food delicious.

Overall an absolute winner of a luxury tented lodge.

Report to follow on Day 2 of game-viewing in the area

Goodnight Day 1

I was exhausted and the wonderful Goodluck arranged for dinner in my room. I felt ridiculously spoilt but oh so grateful ….. hot bath….. and bed to the sounds of lions in the distance………