Day Eleven - Namiri to Dunia

Yet another farewell to an amazing collection of people at Namiri Plains and then on the road back to Seronera, game-driving slowly along the way in the company of another guide, Khalid. First a stop at the nearest (I think) kopje where the pride, I think, from under the tree were in early morning high-spirits with both cubs and lionesses frolicking, pouncing and play-fighting.

We stayed and enjoyed their seemingly joyful play for a while and then continued to where another Asilia vehicle had a coalition of three cheetah brothers in their sights. As we arrived the brothers were on a steady move towards a herd of Eland. We stopped near the other vehicle and cut the engine to watch the hunt unfold from a distance. 

The cheetah picked up pace approaching through a sea of mid-height grass until suddenly they burst into speed fanning out towards the now panicked Eland. The herd took flight but the lead cheetah appeared to single out a smaller one and it looked like he brought it down into the grass. The hunt over we were able to drive closer to where the cheetah had stopped – all to find him and his companions empty-‘handed’. Somehow the eland had escaped him even though we were all convinced we had seen the cheetah take it down. The three brothers gazed off wistfully after the now-distant herd then lay down in the grass to recover from the chase and wait for another opportunity to wander by.

What a fantastic way to end my catstravaganza experience at Namiri.

Arriving at Seronera I was greeted by the most amazing smile of my new guide Zawadi; a lady guide with waist-length dreadlocks and the sass to match. We chatted easily on the 90 minute gentle drive through giraffe and by a hippo pool to camp. 

Dunia is located south of Seronera in the Moru area, tucked behind a hill in a wooded and bushy site filled with wild-flowers giving the feeling of a safari-garden.

A massive welcome was waiting from the all-female staff of Dunia with much singing and celebration, which was to be a general theme to my overnight stay. In the heavily male-dominated safari-world the women of Dunia are blazing the trail as a beacon of inspiration and hope to all aspiring women in Africa and beyond. From guides to camp manager to overnight security it’s an all-female team and the undeniable feeling of sisterhood and pride that they are independent, capable and powerful in their abilities. Big kudos to Asilia Africa for leading the charge and investing and believing in these women and giving them the opportunity to showcase their skills and capability at Dunia. May other companies follow their lead. I would also mention here that the other company where I noticed a high proportion of female (Tanzanian) management and staff was Singita ….. also great to see (not just waitresses and housekeeping)

Dunia is a lovely luxury permanent tented camp with a fresh contemporary-clean design. The lounge/bar/dining area is set up on decking with a light, open and natural feel. The guest tents are also on wooden platforms with very nice front decks with built-in seating. Large tents with sliding screen fronts (nice feature - much easier that zip-flaps), bathrooms a step-up from canvas-walled shower cubicles to wood framed shower and toilet stall and a large sink/vanity. Solar-powered running hot water. A perfect balance of contemporary luxury but keeping true to the spirit of a tented camp.

After a quick lunch a damp-kikoi nap was in order and then back up for a cup of tea and afternoon drive at 4:30pm.  Zawadi’s first spot was a tree full of lions; five lionesses and large cubs balanced precariously, and somewhat comically in the branches of a fairly high acacia. Three dozed contentedly but two were seeming to have some issues finding the right spot with a large female looking like she’d really like to get down but not quite ready the navigate the descent (which is trickier for lions than the ascent). 

We waited a long time but finally left her undecided and ill at ease to drive to Lake Magadi.

The lake was a perfect calm silver-blue with flocks of pink flamingo, soft in the evening light. We stopped at the shore and got out to be suddenly surprised by a singing and whooping flock of Dunia ladies hiding in the grasses. Their song and laughter set a flurry of flamingos into flight!

Sundowner cocktails shared in the company of these joyful souls was truly a treat worthy of my last evening in Serengeti. Banter, teasing, singing and laughter these women exude a powerful force of togetherness and friendship. “These are my sisters – we are our own tribe.” – Zawadi

We left them on the shores of the lake (to follow us in another vehicle) singing in the fading light with Yasinta chanting beautiful low harmonies that seemed to come from the earth itself.

It was an almost-dark drive back and one of the best ‘night-drives’ I’ve had. We saw a huge porcupine lumbering across the road, bat-eared fox, hyena, dwarf mongoose, scurrying mice and a gorgeous golden-orb spider hitched a ride on the framework of the roof canopy.

Then a gin & tonic round the camp-fire with a dazzling sky of stars and dinner and laughs with Zawadi and Ellie, the manager.