Day Eight - Western Corridor & Rains - Nomad Serengeti Safari Camp

Morning tea arrived on a tray to tray at my tent at 5:30am and we were driving out of camp in the cool morning air at 6am just as the sky was lightening. A soft purple glow turned slowly to peach along the horizon then strengthened gradually to a hazy electric orange. The damp grass sparkled silvery green, almost like frost in the first light of the new day and the air was fresh and fragrant.

We drove north-west then curved westward driving almost parallel to the Grumeti River through open plains filled with the morning’s activity.

Two fluffy hyena cubs trotted from the road at our approach then turned to eye us curiously. 

Numerous herds of zebra, topi, buffalo, impala grazed on either side of the road nearby and also in the middle distance.

Around 7:30 we spotted lion about 100m from the road; a pride of fourteen that we could see. Females and cubs lying in the open with three or four still snacking on the remains of a kill and the rest dozing restlessly. Two jackal trotted nearby, circling and waiting for the chance to get closer while a hyena observed from a little further distance. Also in view were zebra and buffalo – an amazing array of wildlife all in one spot.

We continued on a little further and then stopped for bush breakfast in the company of a large herd of zebra. Our arrival caused a little stampede by those separated on the other side of the road.

A breakfast sandwich, coffee and conversation and we packed back up and continued westward. Mussa had originally planned a different circuit but the road was flooded by an overflowing Grumeti River so we adjusted the route.

Another pride of lions; eight this time with a full-maned male, lay in the grass 50m from the road with two medium-size cubs a bit closer who popped their heads up to look at us and then sauntered to join the adults. Slowly each member of the pride rose and made their way riverward away from us and were lost to sight in the grass.

We drove to take a look at the bridge that leads to &Beyond Grumeti Lodge and it was hidden below the waters of a swollen and powerful Grumeti River. As we pulled up a large monitor lizard strode along the edge of the water and into the grass. In a week or two the wildebeest will be starting to attempt to cross this river and if the flow is still high it will make for some very dangerous and dramatic crossings.

 In a backwater pool just by this crossing-point five or six golden yellow crocs were lazily circling and biding their time just waiting for their annual feast to arrive….

Further along we came across two topi males clashing horns in a serious challenge for the ‘guardianship’ of a watching harem of females until one trotted away and the other returned proudly to his ladies.

In another place 2 topi pronking which is an amazing skipping and leaping/bouncing display of exuberance.

Also a large family of fluffy waterbuck and a gorgeous bright green flap-necked chameleon, his color matching the grass and then a darkening zig-zag appearing on ahis backas he crossed the brown dirt track.

We arrived back in camp around noon for a delicious lunch of fishcakes and salads (and one weak gin and tonic so I wouldn’t get too sleepy and could catch up on this blog and photo-sorting after lunch!)

I set up my ‘bush-office’ for a couple of hours in the lovely lounge close to wifi and then retired to my tent as the heat got to that still and stifling point of the afternoon. Using my damp kikoi trick I spent an hour dozing comfortably despite the heat.

Damp Kikoi Trick – take a thin cotton kikoi/wrap/sarong and wet it down thoroughly, wring it out, lay a towel on the bed, strip off and lay under the wet kikoi - instant AC!!

I woke around 4pm to the sound of thunder rolling and a gusting breeze through the tent, the horizon to the East was shrouded in heavy purple rain-clouds and the storm was approaching fast, 10 or 15 minutes of buffeting wind, canvas swaying, the smell of rain blowing through and the downpour arrived. With no prospect of an afternoon drive likely I settled quite happily back into my cozy tent enjoying the spectacle of the storm through the open screened ‘windows’.

The skies cleared around 6:30 just in time for a camp-fire with stars and fireflies.